Italian meals are not just served; they are orchestrated.
The major meal in Italy is served in the middle of the
day. (Virtually everything is closed except restaurants
between one and four in the afternoon, when the entire
nation pauses to eat.) In Rome, many people go home for
dinner and then return to work, giving the city four rush
hours!
An Italian meal will not be hurried.
It begins with an antipasto or, when guests are present,
several antipasti. There is an antipasto a piedi, which
literally means a "standing" appetizer served
immediately upon the guests' arrival before they are
seated at the table. This is often some type of bruschetta:
toasted slices of Italian bread served with various
toppings, such as chopped tomatoes, pesto, olives, cheese
and garlic. Then there is an antipasto a tavola, an
appetizer for the table - perhaps salami, cheeses, stuffed
pepper or artichokes, or any of dozens of other savory
choices, all served with a fresh, crispy Italian bread,
or focaccia. The antipasti are followed by a primo piatto
(first plate), which is nearly always either soup or
pasta, or perhaps soup with a pasta, like tortellini
in brodo (stuffed pasta in broth). The primo is naturally
followed by a secondo - a main entree, usually meat
or fish prepared according to regional tastes. (In fact,
there is no such thing as generic Italian food; all
Italian cooking is regional. You're more likely to get
seafood in Apulia, meat in Bologna, with the possibility
of either or both in Naples and Rome.) A contorno (side
dish), which consists of a vegetable like zucchini,
asparagus, broccoli rabe, or green beans, accompanies
the secondo. A good regional wine, such as Chianti or
Sangiovese, is poured generously alongside all of this
to "wash it down," as the Italians say.
After a fish or meat dish, Italians
like to cleanse their palette with a fresh salad, or
insalata, served either as a side dish or at the end
of a meal. But the meal is not quite over yet - a plate
of fresh fruit and cheese makes an appropriate final
touch. Italians rarely eat dessert with daily meals,
but on Sundays or holidays a tirami su or cannoli makes
a delectable finale, accompanied by a very strong espresso.
The sheer splendor of an Italian
meal is a marvel to behold. We can take pride in our
spirit of abbondanza (an abundant table), which no one
ever leaves hungry.
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